Cam?

[98camaro231]

what would be a good damn to get, and is the lower block alright for higher revs or would i be needing to rebuild that too? dont lecture me about about a million other things i need to do for a high reving motor i know, just answer my question haha.

[Sgt_Spuds]

Depends.

From some research I've gathered, and from talking to a few engine shops, They all tell me don't **** with the top end on a older motor * 130k here, IDK about you * without re-working the bottom end.

Local shop told me they could take my rotating assembly, recondition it, re machine my block, do a small overbore just to get the cylinders nice, blue print, install a cam, rework my heads, for like 1300 bucks. They build almost ALL of the local race motors for the dirt track guys, and are very well liked. Plus I'm kinda related! lol.

but if im gonna do that, im just gonna build a 383 stroker.... which he said will be pushing 2500 for me, with me bringing him my motor, all out of the car and what not, and having it re-installed.

[super72chevy5522]

go with the mountain crusher cam .585 .585

[98camaro231]

who makes that? i keep hearing about to good cam from compcams but i cant remember what it was?

[97lt1]

who makes that? i keep hearing about to good cam from compcams but i cant remember what it was?

CC306 maybe, I think you need all the bolt-ons first to get the most out of a cam.

[contraststriker]

I cammed mine at 140k, 230/242 114LSA from Combination Motorsports. The highest revving you'll want out of a stock bottom end is 6200 I'd say. No problems to report, so Spuds' machine shop can suck it :)

I get 18 city / 26 highway mpg with that cam. YESSSSSSSSSSSS

[nemesis]

I cammed mine at 140k, 230/242 114LSA from Combination Motorsports. The highest revving you'll want out of a stock bottom end is 6200 I'd say. No problems to report, so Spuds' machine shop can suck it :)

I get 18 city / 26 highway mpg with that cam. YESSSSSSSSSSSS

thats pretty decent gas mileage but anyway lots of people have stock bottom ends and high revving cams that rev to 6500 or more

[I OWNED U]

I get 18 city / 26 highway mpg with that cam.

But what do you run at the track? And what numbers did it put down?

[I OWNED U]

go with the mountain crusher cam .585 .585
Lift is the least of your worries. Dur. lsa and overlap are MUCH more important.

CC306 maybe

230/244 @ .050 and .510/.544 lift w/ a 1.5r and ground on a 112 lsa.

[contraststriker]

But what do you run at the track? And what numbers did it put down?

12.8-.9 depending
350 rwhp

and it's running slightly rich, I OWNED U. It's good gas mileage, you seem pretty skeptical.

And nemisis about the rpm comment...sure, if you don't care about your opti you can rev that high. High lift cams always have great top end so one could rev to 6500, but why would you risk the opticrap. Now as for the MSD opti, that's a different story...

[I OWNED U]

No, I believe you about the gas. But gas mileage is for people who don't want to go fast. Bolt on LT1's are going 12.4-12.6.

I guess we should be asking him what he wants out of the car.

[contraststriker]

No, I believe you about the gas. But gas mileage is for people who don't want to go fast. Bolt on LT1's are going 12.4-12.6.

I guess we should be asking him what he wants out of the car.

with full suspension and drag radials, I bet. You just named the lowest times a bolt-on LT1 could feasably produce. My car's a daily driver, not built for the track--my times are on street tires and I have no suspension mods. "for people who don't want to go fast"? Let me rephrase your statement for you: "gas mileage is for people who drive 250 miles per week for work." Generalizations are stupid, bro.

[I OWNED U]

Squigley is running 12.69 w/ a weak ass 1.8 60'. No drag suspension, and it's a daily driver. Pleanty of people running good times over at EFA w/ stock LT1 motors and bolt ons. Crawl out from under your rock. Don't be mad, be faster.

[contraststriker]

Squigley is running 12.69 w/ a weak ass 1.8 60'. No drag suspension, and it's a daily driver. Pleanty of people running good times over at EFA w/ stock LT1 motors and bolt ons. Crawl out from under your rock. Don't be mad, be faster.

12.69 isn't 12.4-12.6, and Squiggs does have LCAs and subframes, I believe. Plus that was on drag radials. I'm really not here to defend my car, I simply questioned your statement. I gave useful cam information in the thread and your mpg/power assumptions proved false.

[96WS6]

Ryan also ran a 13.2 before the slicks. That just shows you how much tires mean when looking for a fast 1/4 mile time.

[oLdSkoolz28]

it works either way...my theory is CAM IT or dont cam it at all, biggest badest cam you can get for your flow rate and displacement...or dont waste your money, but thats my opinion, and i wouldnt poke at people for picking a more daily driver cam for better gas milage instead of turning their 20mpg car into a 10mpg car. Hell if i had a local tunning shop i would seriously look into the Magic Stick cam....streetable yes....desierable for a street car...prolly not. either way..david, what do you want a higher RPM powerband for? picking up 500rpms would be noticable since ther other LT1 guys said around 6200rpms. usually the rotating assembly isnt the problem..its lifters, push rods, springs..valvetrain failure will happen before...well hell im not sure what would happen to the rotating assembly besides oil starvation and spinning a bearing.

[I OWNED U]

12.69 isn't 12.4-12.6, and Squiggs does have LCAs and subframes, I believe. Plus that was on drag radials. I'm really not here to defend my car, I simply questioned your statement. I gave useful cam information in the thread and your mpg/power assumptions proved false.

Squigs has LCAs. How does that help you launch? Nothing else. And he was on a slick, not a DR. He also trapped at 108+mph which is good for mid 12's. Over on EFA "94z4me" is running 12.43 in their "pure street LT1" class.
My assumptions were if you want to go FAST then you can't get to wrapped up in mpg. And my point is you have a cam and are unaware that there are plenty of people running faster than you w/ less done to their motor. Is it common for stock lt1's to run mid 12's? No, not really, but a cammed lt1 should be faster than a high 12.

[~Squigley~]

The only suspension i have done are lower control arms and adjustable panhard rod... i have subframes, but they are not on yet and all they do is add weight to the car.. they dont help much when dragging unless your pulling the front wheels off the ground... i ran a 12.69 @ 108 with slicks on the car and a manual tranny... i have no internals done... everything that is on my car is in my sig... and i even have plenty more bolt ons i can do to my car such as pullies, rockers, drag suspension, electric water pump, etc... bolt on lt1's are very capable of low 12's which is trevors point... imo an lt1 with a cam should be running low 12's high 11's... i guess we will see when i get a cam, after i see how i do in the bolt on lt1 class... i might just wanna go faster :D

[contraststriker]

The only suspension i have done are lower control arms and adjustable panhard rod... i have subframes, but they are not on yet and all they do is add weight to the car.. they dont help much when dragging unless your pulling the front wheels off the ground... i ran a 12.69 @ 108 with slicks on the car and a manual tranny... i have no internals done... everything that is on my car is in my sig... and i even have plenty more bolt ons i can do to my car such as pullies, rockers, drag suspension, electric water pump, etc... bolt on lt1's are very capable of low 12's which is trevors point... imo an lt1 with a cam should be running low 12's high 11's... i guess we will see when i get a cam, after i see how i do in the bolt on lt1 class... i might just wanna go faster :D

Okay, Ryan and I OWNED U: heads on an LT1 suck...my cam wants more than they can supply. I know you both already knew that, but seem to be overlooking it. I've never heard anyone expect a cammed LT1 to touch 11s. And I wouldn't be surprised at all if I could hit 12.4 with slicks. I can name at least 5 local LT1s with mods like mine on street tires that run similarly.

[I OWNED U]

Anyone w/ an LT1 or LS1 telling a 3rdgenner that their heads suck, needs to go find out what "sucky" heads really look like.

.100 72/53
.2 129/101
.3 180/136
.4 213/155
.5 214/165
.6 215/171

Those are not "sucky" numbers for a stock head. I/E ratio is 72-79% from 400 on up. Too bad they peak at .400 on the intake. A little pocket porting will help that out.

[contraststriker]

Anyone w/ an LT1 or LS1 telling a 3rdgenner that their heads suck, needs to go find out what "sucky" heads really look like.

.100 72/53
.2 129/101
.3 180/136
.4 213/155
.5 214/165
.6 215/171

Those are not "sucky" numbers for a stock head. I/E ratio is 72-79% from 400 on up. Too bad they peak at .400 on the intake. A little pocket porting will help that out.

Yeah I've only ever heard comparisons to the illustrious LS1 heads--people act like they're god compared to LT1s.

[I OWNED U]

According LS1 owners, is was built by GOD himself. :rolleyes: Most people can't tell you why they flow so well, they just make a blanket statement like "they're just better". Nevermind the intake port design or the 15* valve angle...

[~Squigley~]

Okay, Ryan and I OWNED U: heads on an LT1 suck...my cam wants more than they can supply. I know you both already knew that, but seem to be overlooking it. I've never heard anyone expect a cammed LT1 to touch 11s. And I wouldn't be surprised at all if I could hit 12.4 with slicks. I can name at least 5 local LT1s with mods like mine on street tires that run similarly.
I understand you cant make full potential with your cam because of the heads, however, it is definately possible for a cammed lt1 to hit 11's... especially with a good number of bolt ons, a decent sized cam, a valvetrain upgrade, suspension, and weight reduction

[98camaro231]

so what your telling me is squiggs couldn't get .6 seconds off his quarter mile time with a cam? what ever. and everyone what did i say about lecturing. all i wanted was the name of the compcams cam and i got it, duh your gonna need new heads to get the most of a cam or anything at all. you people are just stating commonly known fact. whats the point of buying a cam if your heads are going to starve em.

[contraststriker]

whats the point of buying a cam if your heads are going to starve em.

Because you might plan on buying heads later, duh.

[I OWNED U]

what would be a good damn to get, and is the lower block alright for higher revs or would i be needing to rebuild that too? dont lecture me about about a million other things i need to do for a high reving motor i know, just answer my question haha.

you people are just stating commonly known fact. whats the point of buying a cam if your heads are going to starve em.

Since you gave an enormous amount of information on what you wanted from the car, and a detailed list of any other changes you plan in the near future, tire size, 1.6 rockers, rear gear, transmission type, etc, I’ll go out of my way to look through catalogs, flow numbers, and find other dyno proven combos to help out someone I don’t even know and could care less about. Here ya go, are you ready? LT4 hawt cam.

Here's another no effort response which is better than the previous.
1-800-999-0853 they get paid to give free, blind, advice to people who don't know what they're doing. Make sure you call them up and talk to at least 3 different techs. You will get a different cam for each one you talk to. Take the average of all the numbers, and bingo! That's the one you want.

Some may think I'm being a little harsh, but unless you understand how a camshaft can change everything about a motor/car, you shouldn't be putting one in. Or "demanding" other people to help you. Especially when you "already know" according to the first quote.

[98camaro231]

Since you gave an enormous amount of information on what you wanted from the car, and a detailed list of any other changes you plan in the near future, tire size, 1.6 rockers, rear gear, transmission type, etc, I’ll go out of my way to look through catalogs, flow numbers, and find other dyno proven combos to help out someone I don’t even know and could care less about. Here ya go, are you ready? LT4 hawt cam.

Here's another no effort response which is better than the previous.
1-800-999-0853 they get paid to give free, blind, advice to people who don't know what they're doing. Make sure you call them up and talk to at least 3 different techs. You will get a different cam for each one you talk to. Take the average of all the numbers, and bingo! That's the one you want.

Some may think I'm being a little harsh, but unless you understand how a camshaft can change everything about a motor/car, you shouldn't be putting one in. Or "demanding" other people to help you. Especially when you "already know" according to the first quote.

i think your the only person who as ever sugested to get the LT4 hot cam, i've always heard bad things about it, i just wanted a list of a few cams to look at, especially the compcams ones, which someone already mentioned and thats the one i want to go with. i dont need to be lectured about the rest of the valve train and heads and so on. and i dont need to call a stupid hotline to get some information only if someone could show me some websites that would have all of these things on here, i cant seem to manage to find any.

[PaganEgyptian]

A Cam is nothing without adequate Spring pressure. Thats where your top end damage comes from over-revving... And I cant help but laugh at some of the responses I have read :D . -Tim

[oLdSkoolz28]

you know ive just been browsing over the last few replies....David...why dont you just research for yourself...or PM people that have cammed LT1s..your being lectured because your being dumb about this.

[dontshakepandas]

you know ive just been browsing over the last few replies....David...why dont you just research for yourself...or PM people that have cammed LT1s..your being lectured because your being dumb about this.
I will agree with that and disagree with that at the same time. There is nothing bad about asking questions. If nobody asked questions, there would be very little information available on message boards. However, if you are going to ask questions, don't whine about the replies you get. Even though YOU may not need every bit of information someone shares, several other people will read this and may not be as informed as you.

[oLdSkoolz28]

thats what i was getting at scott...he asks questions then says dont lecture me about what i need...even though its very key info on cam swapping, and maybe im wrong, but i wouldnt be suprise to hear that he F*ed up this vavles due to high RPM floating because he didnt upgrade the rest of the vavle train.

[I OWNED U]

i think your the only person who as ever sugested to get the LT4 hot cam, i've always heard bad things about it, i just wanted a list of a few cams to look at, especially the compcams ones, i dont need to be lectured about the rest of the valve train and heads and so on. and i dont need to call a stupid hotline to get some information only if someone could show me some websites that would have all of these things on here, i cant seem to manage to find any.

www.compcams.com
that's the number I gave you. And they have enough information to keep you busy for DAYS. Under their ‘tech’ section they have instructions on how to do everything. All the measurements, how to pick out springs, how to pick out the correct LSA, lift, duration, overlap, etc. This list goes on forever. There is no plug and play formula for a cam, some even considerate a bit of black magic.

You need to be a lot more specific about what you’re looking for. Do you want something that’ll work w/ stock springs? How important is drivability? Do you care about emissions? Also do some reading and find out basics on your heads. How much lift can you run? NO ONE knows it all, and every engine builder must look up the specs. You’ll also need to find a target compression ratio. Your static c/r won’t change, but your dynamic c/r will. And the dynamic is what’s important. Do you know the difference?

If you want help, ask for it, and be great full. The more I learn about cars, the more I realize how little I know.

[RedZ28]

Just suggesting the Comp Beehive Valve Springs if you do decide to upgrade valve train. I personaly don't like the LT4 Hot Cam, So I am trying the 1LE cam.

But like everyone else is saying there are alot of people out there who can help you out with what you want. But it just depends on what YOU want because you are going to be driving it.

[I OWNED U]

Oh btw, the lt4 hot cam is gay. That's why I spell it 'hawt'. I also think that the behive spring (918's) from comp are just like any other spring. When properly matched for the application, they work great. But I personally think they're just a little on the "light" side for a big cam.

O.D.: 1.055/1.290
I.D.: 0.650/0.885
Seat Load: 130 @ 1.800
Open Load: 333 @ 1.150
Coil Bind: 1.140
Rate(lbs./in.): 313

Simple math show's these springs are good to .610" lift w/ .050" clearance before coil bind. The specs on the website are a little misleading. They show open load at 1.15 w/ only .01 before coil bind. You don't actually want to run less than 0.05" clearance before bind, hence the 0.610 max lift. This reduces your actual open pressure to 321#s over the nose.

Now, a mild cam in a LT1 or LS1 could use those forever. But heavy valved old school motor w/ a more aggresive lobe will need over 350#s open. All depends on the application.